Click here for a map of Macquarie Island
We woke to an amazing view from our cabin. Lusitania Bay has around 300,000 to 500,000 King Penguins packed tightly together so that there simply is no room for any more! Although we had read about the numbers of penguins on Macquarie the reality is so much more than we could ever have expected. The day began early with breakfast at 07:00. We were in the first Zodiacs to cruise in Lusitania Bay. The weather was rather overcast with just a little rain, but the views were most spectacular. The whole sea was alive with penguins (mostly Kings but with some Royals and Rockhoppers mixed in). The Kings in particular seemed most curious about the ship - there were hundreds swimming around and looking up as if to ask what peculiar kind of animal was this? When we got near the shore it seemed impossible for any of the penguins in the water ever to get up onto the beach - there simply did not appear to be any space left.
At the beach front along the waterline the non-breeding adults had gathered, behind these there were rows and rows of breeding pairs - mostly single adults with an egg (we couldn't see the eggs but Terry told us and he should know as he has worked on the beach counting penguins over several seasons). We could see one crèche of large chicks further back and to one side. The noise and smell were both most memorable and strong! The smell grew especially powerful as we crossed the exit of the stream that flows through the colony and takes the effluent out to sea. In this area the colour of the ocean changed from a clear blue green to a thick dirty brown.
In the middle of the beach three large rusting drums could be seen. These are the last remains of the digestors used up to the early years of this century to boil down penguins for their oil, before Mawson's lobbying finally stopped the destruction. It is now fitting that these digestors are home to hundreds of penguins. Clearly, despite the wanton slaughter the penguins have triumphed in the end.
On the way back to the ship the Kings were once again curious, following us close behind the Zodiac, their heads constantly bobbing up and down in the water. After returning to the ship we got dried out - although we found our waterproof gear to be most effective some water had got in to the camera bag so a little work was needed. Once the second wave of Zodiacs had returned the ship set off north for Sandy Bay, to see the Royals. When we arrived Barbara and I made sure we got in one of the first Zodiacs - a decision which later turned out to be particularly good.
The weather was clear but windy and loading the Zodiacs was a tricky business with several attempts needed to get everyone aboard. We eventually got under way to the beach where the Royals were lined up waiting for us. There were birds posing on the rocks with two Australian rangers, birds swimming in the water, birds diving in and others getting out. This was surely the highlight of the trip so far. On the beach there were more Royals as well as Kings, skuas, shags and Elephant Seals. The sheer size of Elephant Seals is hard to describe. We could see several males fighting at the back of the beach - they rose several metres into the air as they threw themselves at each other. It is hard to realise these animals weigh as much as three tonnes each yet can move quickly around on the beach when they think another male is trying to invade their harem. We continued to cruise around for about an hour getting a good look at the penguins and taking a lot of photographs and video before returning to the ship.
The disembarkation from the Zodiacs proved eventful. There was quite a swell and we had difficulty in getting close enough for Simon and the Russian seaman to grab hold. Even when we were held the swell was so high that only two passengers could get off before we broke loose with the Russian now on board. Rodney, in another Zodiac, called the ship to raise the anchor and to come around to provide some shelter for the Zodiac. Finally we did manage to get back on board the ship, but not before we had had a tantalising thought that we might get stranded and have to be landed on Macquarie. As a result of the deteriorating conditions, Rodney called a halt to any further Zodiac cruising. Several people were thus unlucky enough to miss out on this, the best part of the voyage so far.
After everyone was safely back on board we continued north to Buckles Bay where there are some Gentoo Penguins. Unfortunately the conditions did not permit Zodiac cruising to see them on the land, however, we did get good close up views of several Gentoos swimming by the ship.
